My trip to Ireland: part 8

You were perhaps wondering if my everlasting story about Ireland would end soon, without too much fuzz. But I have to disappoint you; there are still a couple of chapters left to be written. They will hopefully still be as interesting as the previous, but since everything is written without a sketch, I cannot promise you an easy, straightforward history. It will be as wild as the soul of the Irish nation, living its own life without listening to reason from any other than itself.

Today's post will deal with the collective memory the Irish nation deals with from day to day, events that has shaped the history, and then especially two insurrections: The 1798-Rising and the Easter Rising in 1916.

The plan for us this Sunday was to take it easy, with a walk in the park, checking out some monuments and hopefully don't do anything stupid... So off we went with no map or compass, trying to find Arbourhill cementary where the leaders of the Easter Rising are buried.

But in our search we also found another graveyard, The Croppies Acre, by coincidence. But I'm glad we did.

For the men who fought for freedom in 1798

The rebellion (or I should perhaps say rebellions..) came as a part of a strong tradition in the Irish culture not to bow to anyone, but sadly had the previous risings and rebellions failed one by one. It would also mean something for the future, it would ignite something in the Irish spirit that gave them the energy for trying over and over again, despite defeat. 

What went wrong?

Many songs and stories have been written about the risings which occurred throughout Ireland this year, and some of them still rings in my ears when I look back on what I have learned and this day in Dublin. I've already mentioned Henry Joy McCracken (read chapter 4), but here will I  tell you a little bit about a leader from another part of Ireland, Wexford's own Father Murphy.
In the beginning he was against the whole idea of rebellion and urged his parishioners to give up their arms and swear an allegiance to the British Crown. But his peace turned to anger the day he saw some English soldiers torch a cottage based on some groundless accusations that its missing inhabitant was a rebel. He and his friends attacked the soldiers, and there were no way back now.
The rebellion in Wexford had begun.
The song Boolavogue tells us what happened next:

He led us on 'gainst the coming soldiers,
The cowardly Yeomen we put to flight;
'Twas at the Harrow the boys of Wexford
Showed Bookey's regiment how men could fight.
Look out for hirelings, King George of England,
Search every kingdom where breathes a slave,
For Father Murphy of the County Wexford
Sweeps o'er the land like a mighty wave.

We took Camolin and Enniscorthy,
And Wexford storming drove out our foes;
'Twas at Slieve Coillte our pikes were reeking
With the crimson stream of the beaten yeos.
At Tubberneering and Ballyellis
Full many a Hessian lay in his gore;
Ah, Father Murphy, had aid come over,
The green flag floated from shore to shore!

At Vinegar Hill, o'er the pleasant Slaney,
Our heroes vainly stood back to back,
And the Yeos at Tullow took Father Murphy
And burned his body upon the rack.
God grant you glory, brave Father Murphy,
And open Heaven to all your men;
The cause that called you may call tomorrow
In another fight for the green again.

This story didn't end happily ever after for Father Murphy (he was stripped, flogged, hanged, decapitated, his corpse burnt in a barrel of tar and his head impaled on a spike. This final gesture was meant to be a warning to all others who fought against the British crown), but his legacy still lives on, like all the other great leaders through the Irish history.Hail to his memory!

After wandering around the Croppies Acre for some time, we headed on (and we didn't even get hit by the Luas) towards our original destination: Arbourhill cementary, located close to Collins Barracks. After some fruitless searching, we finally found it, next to Arbourhill Prison....

It was a truly beautiful cementary with cypresses along the lane leading up to the 1916-memorial. Standing in front of this made my tears flow, and I read the same words as Padraig Pearse had read, over and over again. And it made me wonder: does Ireland honour these words today , or are they as base and meaningless as any other words one can read in a glossy magazine? 

Important words...

...not to be forgotten...

...and not to be underestimated

The bravest fell, and the solemn bell
Rang mournfully and clear
For those who died that Eastertide
In the springing of the year.
And the world did gaze in deep amaze
At those fearless men and true
Who bore the fight that freedom's light
Might shine through the foggy dew.

The next point on our list was Phoenix Park, where we would probably meet many other Dubliners with the same idea as us: lunch and a walk in the beautiful park. 

And it was indeed an amazing place, and the size! The biggest park back home in Bergen is perhaps only a 1/20 of this one :p

It is called Phoenix Park because it takes it name from Phoenix House, the original residence of the British viceroys, whose title derived from the Irish 'fionn uisce' (clear water)"

The Wellington Monument

Yes, the Duke of Welllington was born in Dublin, but he was (apparently) never proud of his irish ancestry and this quotation has is not by him, but it is still said that he said this when he was asked about his irish background:  "If a gentleman happens to be born in a stable, it does not follow that he should be called a horse."
Anyway, we had our lunch at this column, and planned our next move. The weather was perfect for a walk in the the park, not too hot nor too humid.
This park may seem quiet and peaceful, but its story contains bloody stains too.
In 1882, 6 May, were two men stabbed to death here by some members of the "Irish National Invincibles", an earlier unheard of republican organisation. Those men weren't just anybody. They were Lord Frederick Cavendish, newly appointed Chief of Secretary for Ireland, and Thomas Henry Burke, the Permanent Undersecretary.These assassinations led to an investigation where no less than 7 men where convicted and sentenced to death by hanging. The executions were carried out in Kilmainham Gaol between 14 May and 4 June, 1883. Others were sentenced to serve long prison terms.

The 15 Acres; formerly the duelling ground in Dublin

Peaceful and grand: perfect for a Sunday stroll

Áras an Uachtaráin; The Residence of the Irish President

Who cannot envy the President this house and this view? I'm just asking...

After a couple of hours in the park we headed down to the citycentre again (still not being hit by the Luas...) and when we crossed the river we had two alternatives: Kilmainham Gaol or the Pub. Tricky question, but my feet was screaming for rest at this point, so Kilmainham must wait until next time...

The James Joyce Bridge

I cannot quite understand why this bridge is named after James Joyce, but maybe I just have to read his books more thoroughly then...
It had again been a great day, and I cannot say how thankful I was when I could put my feet up, get a pint of something magical and listen to some brilliant music

SLAINTÉ!