My trip to Ireland: part 7

The last post only covered the first day I spent in Dublin and as you perhaps noticed: I took it all in. So now I will try to give you a view of the rest of my stay in Dublin. On the other hand: I think we must take one day at the time, in order not to scare you too much :p
So here comes the recollection of the 24th July...
BEWARE!

Dublin is the kind of city that grows on you, it surprises you at every turn. This is a city who are balancing through life on a very fine line, between history and modernity, old and new. Sometimes one can wonder if it will fall, and fail its magic trick. But so far hasn't Dublins soul been up for auction, and I cross my fingers that it never will be either.
So how did I experience Dublin the next couple of days after the shock had settled? There was so much to see and I had fairly limited time.
After a good nights sleep I was so ready to explore the city. First on my list: get some proper insoles, because I knew we were going to cover pretty much ground by just walking, and it was no point in getting any blisters if I could avoid it. So while I was in the shoe-shop, Steven ran over to the Tourist Office to fix our tickets for our trip to Glendalough some days later. We were supposed to be meeting a pen-pal of mine; Siân by the GPO, and I got a chance to look closer at the building and feel the columns that still has some bullet holes in them after the Easter Rising.
Let me tell you a little bit about Siân: she is just the most loving, and wonderful girl you can imagine, and we hit it off right away. It was like she could read my mind, and she understood. She would join us for the day, and since we were at the GPO, we decided to start there with checking out the inside.

I want a post-office like this!

It is great that they still use it as a post-office and not turning it into a museum, where the history will get strangled.
We made our way over O'Connell bridge in search for a pub (for our defence: we were looking for coffee), and on our way we passed a secondhand bookshop. And I just had to look...
So I dragged both Steven and Siân with me into the bookshop, and this is what we saw:

HEAVEN

They had books about EVERYTHING! And the section with Irish history and fiction made my head spin. This was a true dreamplace for a bibliophile like me, and I was very reluctant to leave it, especially the children's corner where they had all the books I had read when I grew up; Treasure Island, The Jungle Book and Robin Hood. Our next stop would be a pub in St Anne's Street called Kehoe's. It was still morning, and we had the pub to ourselves. We found a cosy corner, got our coffee and started planning what to do the rest of the day.

Coffee-time

We decided to make our way to Merrion Square and Archbishop Ryan Park were we hopefully would find some statues and take our time enjoying the place. And indeed we did; because this park is the home of Dublins perhaps funniest statue: Oscar Wilde.

The Quare in the Square

Seriously, who cannot smile when they see this one? Right beside it was a small black pillar with quotes by him carved into the stone and colored white to contrast the black. And there was one quote that resounded in my heart:

We are all in the gutter, but some of us are looking at the stars

The reason for this was a doomed fancy 6 months ago...these words dragged me up from the gutter at the time, but I had tried to forget the guy for some time (long story), so it was weird to see them on print again.
Believe it or not: this little bibliophile hasn't read anything by Oscar Wilde ...yet.
Anyway, let's get on with the story.

After roaming aimlessly around in this small, but oh so charming park, we got fairly hungry, so off to Marks and Spencer in Grafton street. Siân and I got a sandwich each and some juice, while Steven chose to have his homemade lunch. It was around midday, and the sun was shining, so we decided to eat our lunch at St Stephens Green. There we met a bride and groom, looking for a nice place to take their wedding-pictures. It was so great to just enjoy every minute and not having to worry about a thing in the world.

Made me think of the story about the ugly duckling by H.C. Andersen

There are so many statues in St Stephens and the last time we were there, we hadn't found neither Wolfe Tone nor James Joyce. But if you look, you will find (eventually), so after some time we  spotted Mr Wolfe Tone over at the other side of the park. As we made our way over to him, we saw something else that attracted our attention. A memorial for all those who died during the famine, triggered by the devastating  potatoblight that struck Ireland 1845 and lasted to 1852. 1.1 million people died, and nearly 1.5 emigrated to a "better" future in Canada and USA.

Waiting to die

Once again did I face the history, the history that had troubled me for so long and had also been the core of my bachelor-thesis. Their destinies will never, and should never, be forgotten.

Wolfe Tone (1763-1798) is one of the leaders the Irish love to remember. I guess it has to do with his role in the 1798-rebellion. This rebellion could perhaps have been a success, but it initiated a line of (sadly) failing risings and rebellions;  Robert Emmet in 1803 (total and utterly failure), Young Irelanders in 1848 (that one ended in a cabbageditch in county Tipperary), The Fenians in 1867 and up to the Easter Rising (which maybe was somewhat successful in the long run....)
But all these failures shows us an astounding quality in the Irish people: They don't give up!

A grand leader / Tonehenge

So even if his rebellion didn't end that well (he died in prison before they could execute him...some say suicide, some say something else..), his ideas and dreams still inspire people. He believe that people could coexist no matter despite their religious loyalty. This was a man who would fight for humanity; both Catholics and protestants alike. He was perhaps a revolutionary, but over all: He was a man who fought for what he believed in!

"Christopher Columbus, as everyone knows, is honored by posterity because he was the last to discover America."

Another confession: I haven't read Ulysses (my brother is picking on my shoulder and tells me that he hasn't read it either...puh) I don't have anything against mr Joyce, but why has this book become so important? It is almost impossible to read! "Dubliners" on the other hand, is much more comprehensible...
But who am I to judge the literary pearls of this nation? Let us get on with the story...

So after we were finished in St Stephens Green, we made our way over to one of Dublin's most popular places (especially for tourists): Temple Bar
This is, let's be honest, a pub-district. And since it was to early for a pint for us, we headed for one of the bridges that's crossing Liffey.

All over Dublin can one see people with big posters advertising for stuff, and this guy seemed pretty tired, so he's taking a breather by the coolest box in Dublin. Can you see the man dressed like a sheep?

Four Courts

Now we were also looking for a place for a breather, and beneath the trees by the Four Courts, we stopped for a while so we could check the map and enjoy the view over Liffey. Well, we can debate the beauty of the scene, because a dirtier river haven't I seen in a very long time and I wouldn't advice anyone to take a swim in it...

Two great friends; Siân and Steven

(To Siân and Steven: I cannot say how thankful I am that you chose to get to know me. I'm forever grateful)

It was a hot day, and we were getting pretty thirsty at this point, so up O'Connell once more. And on our way we found: James Joyce (again), a street-artist and some musicians. Here you got them all:

He's never been more popular (as a statue)

The Autumn Girl

 

Ryan Sheridan and Artur Graczyk; what can I say? There was definitely something about their music that resonated in my mind, and it brought a smile to my face. It's energetic and laid-back at the same time; perfect for a Sunday morning. After I got home I have listened to their 8 track demo over and over again, and it is like Dublin itself; it sneaks up upon you and before you know it is it a part of you.

So with music in my head and a smile on my face, we searched for a place to rest our feet and plan our next move. And there in a backstreet of Henry Street, we found our little oasis. We started to discuss the apparent mess that Ireland as a nation is in the middle of at the moment, with recession and general bad governing. Don't get me started on the schoolsystem...

Anyway, a woman started talking to us, and her story was both amazing and disturbing. Her relationship with the police, The Garda, was everything else than good. I will not go in detail here, but her story contained abuse, drug-dealing and lack of trust. It seemed the Garda thinks they stand outside the law, and  don't abide to the law they are supposed to be upholding.

We sat and talked with her for almost 3 (!) hours, and my idea of the system had really been altered in such a short time...

Now was the time for a pint, so we headed down to The Brazen Head; Ireland's supposed oldest pub. It was so good to finally sit down and enjoy a pint of  Guinness while looking back on the day that went so fast.

Siân had to catch the bus back to Bray (south of Dublin), so hugs were shared and I sincerely hope to meet here again.

So after 2 pints, me and Steven headed home for Phibsborough, and the Dublin night gave the perfect end of a brilliant day.